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Author Topic: 45 Degree Diagonal Installation (tapping in the ends)  (Read 10071 times)
CyberBen
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« on: March 23, 2006, 04:02:32 PM »

What's the trick to tapping in the last board in each row?  It's cut at a 45 degree angle so the tapping bar doesn't really work too well.  I saw the thread on that and here are the suggestions...

- Use double sided tape to attach a scrap board to the end board, and use the tapping block on that.

- Use a Prybar (not sure how this suggestion is supposed to work)

- Cut the tounge off and use glue at the joint

I guess my question is... what do installers typically do for a diagonal installation?  And what kind of doublesided tape would be strong enough?

Thanks...  - Ben
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Lamguy
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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2006, 06:56:19 AM »

I use a suction cup from crain. It has a place to put your pull bar.
Attatch the cup to the floor and place pull bar on cup and tap.
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Lamguy
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2006, 07:20:52 AM »

I should of added that is what I do if the product is tap and lock.
If the product is a rotating lock I shave the lock down and glue.
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CyberBen
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« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2006, 01:41:56 PM »

Thanks -

It's a tap and lock...

I was poking around looking for suction cups and I found this thing called a Power Shunting Device.  have you ever tried one?

http://www.tools4flooring.com/taylor-power-shunting-device-p-705.html

It looks like you can adjust the rotation of the blade to any angle...
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Lamguy
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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2006, 08:36:02 PM »

I haven't tried the Power shunting device. Here's the cup I was talking about.

http://www.tools4flooring.com/crain-566-floor-vise-p-337.html
I picked mine up off ebay I think I got it for $15.00.
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CyberBen
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« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2006, 08:52:12 AM »

Well the power shunting device didn't work out too well.  It's difficult to get the blade between the wall and the end of the boards.  Most of the time it won't fit.  So we are going to try that suction cup now...
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CyberBen
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« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2006, 11:56:27 AM »

Hi LamGuy - can you tell me the diameter of that cup?  The boards we are installing are only 6" wide so I want to make sure the cup will fit on the board.  Thanks!  - Ben
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Lamguy
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« Reply #7 on: March 30, 2006, 03:28:41 PM »

Ben, Are you leaving enough room for expansion between the wall and floor? If you can't get the tool in there you might be to tight.
The Crain cup is 4.5 inches. Should work fine on a 6 inch board.
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CyberBen
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2006, 09:45:12 AM »

Okay, first to answer your question - yes, there is enough expansion gap, but the tool only works with a normal expansion gap if it's a straight end.  If it's a 45 degree end, you have to use the rotation feature of the blade.  The problem is when you rotate the blade, the metal bracket that holds the blade to the tool sticks way over the front edge.  You'd need like an inch of expansion gap to get this tool to fit... so the Power Shunting Device is definitely not meant to help tap in the end boards in diagonal installs, even though the blade can rotate.

We got the suction cup yesterday and unfortunately it just can't grip the floor tight enough... when we try to tap the board in the cup moves before the board does.

I've already burned through two pull bars trying to get those end pieces in... but now we're on the home stretch.  The trick was to use a combination of techniques.

I attach the Crain suction clamp to the end-board, and attach the Power Shunting Device to the clamp, then I tilt the entire row of boards upwards about an inch, but not so far that the tongues comes out of their grooves.  This loosens the grip of the tongue and groove just enough so I can use the Shunting Device on the Clamp and the board will tap into place without a lot of violence.  Then I lower the entire row so it slips back into place.   Sometimes it helps to have two people when dealing with a long row.

My pull bars are both broken and my goal is to finish the floor without buying a new one...  Smiley
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Lamguy
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« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2006, 03:46:50 PM »

Ben, Sounds like you have a rotating lock system.
 On your last board try putting in the end joint first before the long joint.
Anyway glad your getting it together.
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flooringnut
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« Reply #10 on: April 12, 2006, 08:44:11 PM »

Quote from: "CyberBen"
What's the trick to tapping in the last board in each row?  It's cut at a 45 degree angle so the tapping bar doesn't really work too well.  I saw the thread on that and here are the suggestions...

- Use double sided tape to attach a scrap board to the end board, and use the tapping block on that.

- Use a Prybar (not sure how this suggestion is supposed to work)

- Cut the tounge off and use glue at the joint

I guess my question is... what do installers typically do for a diagonal installation?  And what kind of doublesided tape would be strong enough?

Thanks...  - Ben

Hi
If you use a good sharp plane and take a part of the locking system off. Get two scraps and lock them together then sight the join and look at the end . It is easy to see what has to come off to stop the lock from locking . Also the ends joins have a small ridge in the underside of the tongue in most cases . Take just this ridge off and do a trial run .It should just be a smooth fit . Use pva to glue them together but not to much in the groove as it wont push snuggly togther . Use a wide plastic tape to hold the boards tight togeter . Stick one end of the tape down and pull it tight it will streach and its the treach that helps keep the boards togehter while the glue bites up .  A couple of hours is all thats required  for the glue to hold .
With any of the brand of locking flooring if you take a part of the locking system off it then becomes a glue together floor . Simple really .
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